City Within a City

— Greater U Street Heritage Trail —

Black businesses sprung up everywhere on U Street in the early 1900s. As racial segregation increased, African Americans in Washington began a tradition of protest. They also responded by creating institutions of there own. In the 25 years from 1895 to 1920, the number of Black-owned businesses in this area skyrocketed from about 15 to more than 300. They clustered around U Street.

John Whitelaw Lewis led the way in a true rags to riches story. Arriving in Washington with few resources in 1896, he took a job as a brick carrier. He soon organized his co-workers into a building and loan association, and in 1913 turned it into the Industrial Savings Bank, located on its original site directly across 11th Street. Reorganized by Jesse Mitchell in the 1930s, it continues in his family today as one of the oldest Black financial institutions in the nation.

The bank building and the building on this corner were both financed by John Whitelaw Lewis and designed by Black architect Isaiah T. Hatton in 1919 and 1922, respectively. The Bohemian Cavern of today is a revival of a long tradition on this spot. The Crystal Caverns began here in 1926, giving way to the Club Caverns, and then the Bohemian Caverns in the 1960s—a setting for the music of John Coltrane, Cannonball Adderley, Miles Davis, and Ramsey Lewis, among many others. The Ramsey Lewis Trio recorded the popular album,In Crowd, here.

These and other Black-owned businesses created a world unto itself. Those who remember say, "We had everything we needed right here."

[Photo captions:]

John Whitelaw Lewis, above left, financed the Industrial Savings Bank, seen above in the 1940s.

One of many pool halls along U Street, about 1940.

Party at the Club [Crystal] Caverns in the early 1940s. The current Bohemian Cavern has reproduced the original cave-like setting.

The Madame C.J. Walker College of Beauty Culture once operated at 1306 U Street.

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Show me all markers in:  Washington, DC  |  20001  |  District Of Columbia  |  United States of America

Industrial Bank of Washington
Most Worshipful Prince Hall Grand Lodge of the District of Columbia
Civil War Camp to Victorian Neighborhood
African American Civil War Memorial
African American Civil War Memorial
The True Reformer Building
Evans-Tibbs House
Sailors / With Freedom Came the Greater YOU
Ben's Chili Bowl / Minnehaha Theater
Pioneers / With Freedom Came Their Community

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